What, you might ask, is this Camino Primitivo of which whispers abound? Known to some as the Original Camino, this venerable trail is the eldest sibling of the Camino de Santiago routes. It was on this very path that King Alfonso II, known endearingly as 'the Chaste', embarked upon a pilgrimage of profound import. Setting forth from Oviedo, nestled in the heart of Asturias, he journeyed to Santiago in that distant 9th century. His quest? To seek affirmation that the sacred remains discovered in Santiago truly belonged to St James the Apostle.
In those days, Oviedo held the title of capital in the proud Kingdom of Asturias. The King's faithful pilgrimage was not a solitary act; it became the clarion call that beckoned countless souls to tread the path to Santiago de Compostela.
From Asturias and its neighbouring northern Spanish realms to even the most remote and foreign shores, pilgrims heeded the call. Those from the chillier climes of the north would embrace both sea and soil, alighting upon Spain's northern coast, only to continue by foot.
Yet, as kingdoms evolve, so do their roads. When Leon rose to prominence as the new capital, the Camino Frances emerged, overshadowing its predecessor and becoming the favoured route from the 11th century onward.
However, a pilgrimage to Oviedo's San Salvador Cathedral, a sanctuary of significant renown, remained a coveted journey for many. Within its hallowed walls lies the 'Saviour' Cathedral, guardian to a shroud believed to have cradled the head of Christ in the somber hours after His passing.
In our present age, a mere fraction - less than 5% - of Santiago-bound pilgrims opt for the Camino Primitivo. It is a journey both demanding and enchanting in its own right.
Should your heart yearn for this ancient trail, yet doubt its demands, fret not. Begin your odyssey from the city of Lugo, thus circumventing the rugged mountains, and immerse yourself in the final 100kms of the Camino Primitivo's storied path.
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